I just finished an article on r/beer that directed my attention to the economic impact of microbreweries on local economies and what it might indicate to be successful business models in other sectors. As we’ve traveled across the country we’ve run into a fair chunk of small brewers living off the local land so to speak. Hess Brewing in San Diego does a large portion of its’ business right out of its’ own doors, pouring pints for locals who come to visit their modest brewing space. Barrier Brewing in Long Island distributes their kegs to the thirsty NYC area themselves and keeps afloat on their own hard work.
In other areas of the country this is impossible because of local laws – the South is notoriously bad, but the Northeast has a few blue law related issues left as well. Difficult liquor boards can put the squeeze on brewers of all shapes and sizes but even through this the Northeast is flourishing and a number of microbreweries are older than the average.
Our tour of the Northeast started in Portsmouth, NH where we intended to visit Smuttynose Brewing but ended up across the street at Portsmouth Brewing Company which had a few Smuttynose beers on tap and is a brewpub in its own right. We arrived later in the evening for a quick round of local brews before we headed back home for the night. The sister brewery of Sumttynose had a ton of beer on offer, so we of course opted for a sampler of their wares and enjoyed a flight that included Dirty Blonde, Black Cat Stout, a Red Ale, Oatmeal Stout, and their Wit, along with Stone’s Ruination and three Smuttynose offerings. The taster was literally every beer on tap, from the pub or not, which was a departure from most places we’ve been. The Portsmouth beers shared some overarching characteristics – all were relatively light in body barring the Oatmeal Stout, and all were lightly hopped for a West Coaster such as myself. None stood out as a blow you away beer, but I don’t think that’s the intention – this is a solid line-up of pub beers that will satisfy for a night of drinking without striking you as bland.
The Smuttynose beers were a bit different, each with a bit more character and a bit less staid. The Star Island Single was noticeably hazy and light, with smells of citrus and spice up front. A solid entry but not a show-stopper this brew would be great on the front porch with a few more bottles waiting in the wings. The Shoals Pale was again quite good but lacking in hop for my taste. It’s an amber medium-bodied ale that delivers a nice malty backbone with a nice earthy hop flavor though, and I would drink another. The best of the bunch in my opinion was Old Brown Dog, not surprisingly an ale right up my alley. A light brown/dark amber depending how you look at it the body of the beer is perfect, lightly roasty with tasty notes of chocolate and burnt sugar. The hop profile is more in line with my expectations, though that makes sense given it’s a brown ale – I’m still a West Coast hop nerd, but damned if I haven’t cozied up to the East Coast style too.
We pushed on from NH and arrived at Allagash in Maine unscathed, but driving a suddenly shiny car that had been power washed by the clouds. Likely among the better known breweries of our tour Allagash are renowned for their Belgian-style ales and one-off interpretations, not to mention their sour program. We prepped for our visit with a healthy lunch to soak up any tasting pours and drove to the brewery post haste.
A view from the front yard of the brewery - also all breweries should have yards.
The White that started it all for me.
The tour began in the tasting room with a few pours of the ‘Gash line-up which were all from their year round list – White, Tripel, Curieux, and Black. The White is just as I remember it, crisp and refreshing, the first American beer that made me realize we could put out brew that competed with international powerhouses. The tripel is as faithful as can be, intricately fruity and yeasty, corked and caged for your pleasure. Curieux is this same brew aged in Jim Beam barrels for a bit of added ABV and a lingering sweetness that exceeds the Tripel. Black is an earthy dark ale that is deep and mellow with a medium body and a complex mix of estery smells. Dark chocolate and coffee are lingering smells in this roasty brew.
The Jim Beam Barrels were being repurposed as furniture during our visit.
The Allagash tour is fun, moving from the tasting room first (which helps on most tours!) to the brewhouse, which was in operation even on the Fourth of July. After the brewhouse it migrates to the fermentation area, with kegging and packaging nearby as well.
More beer for me, and I guess you too.
Keg, Keg, Keg, Keg, Damnit Jim get off the line!
After the meat and potatoes of the tour, you get the dessert – the sour room. A chilly locker denoted with an Allagash barrel end mounted above the door welcoming you to the magic room. There isn’t much I can say about it, just look at the pictures, drool a bit, and enjoy.
Oh.My.God. So sexy.
Amber Waves Rally 